When picking diamonds there are several main things you want to look for, the most well known are commonly called the 4 C's and refer to the Clarity, Cut, Colour and Carat of a diamond.
The other important things to be aware of are Certs and Florescence.
Clarity
This relates to the marks of non-crystallised carbon called ‘inclusions’ found within the diamond. The inclusions vary in standards on the spectrum ranging from FL (flawless), SI1 to I3.
It is exceedingly rare for a diamond to be flawless, known as FL and is the highest level on the spectrum. SI1 is in the middle of the spectrum and it is recommended when buying a diamond that you should not purchase lower than this standard. I3 is the lowest as it includes the most inclusions and is least clear.
The clarity grade is determined by several factors including:
- The size of inclusions.
- How many inclusions.
- The positioning of the inclusions - inclusions found under the table affects clarity grade more so than inclusions found under the side facets.
- The visibility of the inclusions – the more visible the inclusions to the naked eye the less favourable the grade will be.
Cut
The cut of a stone is not relating to the shape but refers to the way the cutter has formed it to best ensure that light bounces within the stone and back out through the top. If it has a defective cut -too long or too short- the light refracts on the inside and falls out down the bottom. This decreases the brightness and lustre of the stone. A well cut stone is neither exceedingly long nor shallow, it is luminous and will always dazzle when dirty.
The grading system varies from Ideal Cut to Good and lastly, Poor Cut. With round diamonds, it is suggested to never purchase below ‘Very Good’ and ‘Good’ in all other shapes. Again, the better cut stone the more it will cost.
Colour
Diamonds come in every colour; however, coloured stones are less desired as it diminishes it’s ability to refract light in the same way as colourless diamonds. This holds true unless the coloured diamonds are ‘Fancies’- these are rare diamonds of unusually strong colour.
The grade used to determine the desirability of colour in a diamond is measured from D (colourless) to Z (coloured yellow). The clear diamonds are the most prized and are the most expensive.
Carat
The method of measuring a diamond is by its weight or carat. One carat is 0.2 grams and can be further divided into 100 points (this is the method used to determine the lower carat stones). In other words, the smaller the stone the lower in carat weight, whereas, the larger the stone the higher the carat and price.
Fluorescence
Certs
Ensure that you receive a certificate when buying diamonds. There are a few highly reputable grading houses around the world and they include GIA, AGS and DCLA. Never accept the certificate of the retailer, even if they are GIA certified. Only accept certificates from the above-mentioned graders as they maintain high standards and ensure that the quality of the stone is exactly what you have paid for. Other labs are pressured to lower their standards; therefore you will be paying for a lower quality stone for a higher price.
